“Where great food and serendipity live on every block”
Days feel entirely abundant in Buenos Aires. With aesthetic beauty that charms, a gastronomic scene that always satisfies, and public transportation that makes exploration easy, the metropolitan treasure welcomes travel aspirations of all kinds. The three weeks I spent in the city didn’t feel like nearly enough — each neighborhood contains a distinct world, leaving endless experiences to tap into. That said, it was enough time to round up a proud collection of recs. Read on to sink in.
(Plus, a necessary passerby community shoutout: Em helped me land on which neighborhood to stay in via Instagram DMs, and @/elizahamburger shared her stacked Google Maps collection via the passerby Discord. Don’t overlook this sweet corner of the internet for travel advice and beyond!)
what to see
I appreciate how museums can guide thoughtful immersion into a new city, without feeling like a complete tourist trap. An art museum that sold me instantly was the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano (MALBA) in Recoleta, which, on my visit, was graced by thoughtful exhibitions Diego and I and Tercer Ojo. It scores bonus points for its delightful gift shop and two (!) café spaces, too. In San Telmo, I loved the Museo Moderno, which had three fantastic shows on — Green Manifesto, Dance Today, and Pupil — as well as a great café and library room.
If you’re visiting Museo Moderno, a visit to the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (MACBA) is worthwhile as well — the two are next-door neighbors, so it’s a natural pairing. And while Museo Moderno and MALBA are fit to host you for a few hours or longer, MACBA offers a smaller gallery that’s ideal for a quicker art fix. For something even speedier, you can expect ample street art in Buenos Aires, so it’s likely that hand-painted murals will find you during mundane commutes.
Besides museums and galleries, the Cementerio de Recoleta is worth a visit for its architectural beauty. It comes highly recommended, and I could see why right away. This Condé Nast Traveler report captures it well: “Organized like a city with neat rows, blocks of marble and brass form mausoleum-lined streets.” Hosting the tombs of many prominent Argentinian names and families — presidents, Nobel Prize winners, and Eva Perón — each grave is stunning, and a variety of architectural styles are represented, which brings a beautiful montage to the mini-city structure.
where to shop
From malls to markets, shopping in Buenos Aires can look a number of ways. My personal favorite areas to roam were San Telmo and Palermo Soho. San Telmo hosts a giant street market every Sunday, extending along over a dozen blocks and featuring vendors of all kinds. Plus, there are antique stores near the market, like Mercado Argentino Vintage at Humberto primo 499. In Palermo Soho, it’s fun to walk around the many blocks of shops (which house gems like Yey House and Bestia), and it’s worth visiting Distrito Arcos if you’re curious about an outdoor mall scene. I also loved the Monoblock in Villa Crespo for nice stationery finds and handcrafted glassware.
For books, Libros Mendel in Palermo Hollywood was lovely, but there were also so many incredible book vendors on the street, especially in Recoleta, if you’re looking for titles in Spanish.
what to do: daytime
This trip was the first time I gave Airbnb experiences a whirl. Maybe I’m late to that game, but it really exceeded my expectations. I invested in a mate tasting, a traditional asado dinner, and tickets to a Boca Juniors game at La Bombonera. Each endeavor felt wholesome, meaningful, and like an authentic portal to local expertise. A recap:
The mate tasting, located at Porongo: The concept of a mate tasting or class is definitely laughable for any actual Argentinian person since it’s such a staple (but also a treasured ritual) in daily life. However, because of this, mate — a traditional, caffeine-rich tea — isn’t something you can find in a café, so to try it, you need someone else to welcome you in and show you the ropes. I was grateful for a cool, insightful host and a fun group of three other travelers from distinct continents. We received a comprehensive mate tutorial, including pointers on dos and don’ts when it comes to preparation, as well as a historical overview that did justice to its origins.
The asado: This intimate rooftop dinner was hosted by the sweetest couple, Betty and Marcelo, who made all their guests feel at home. I attended alongside about a dozen other travelers and enjoyed at least seven courses and plenty of wine.
The Boca Juniors game: Under the wing of a wonderful host, Luciano, it was truly amazing to witness the culture around Argentinian soccer (and Boca Juniors specifically) up close. Everyone in the stands voices cheers that sound like love songs throughout the entire game, without pause. The passion feels religious. Know that games are open exclusively to members, though, so attending through Airbnb or a similar service will be your only way in. And if you make it to a game, I recommend getting to La Boca early to tailgate and soak up the surroundings.
Beyond Airbnb, another experience that’s worth the trek is a visit to Tigre, a town just north of the city. It takes only 45-60 minutes to get there, via the same easy and affordable subway system that you take within the city. Although it’s not terribly far, it feels like a totally remote escape from urbanity, and to really lean in, a boat ride on the river is a must. I was able to hop on a 1.5-hour cruise at the last minute, for only $10/ticket and with no reservation necessary. (This perfectly encapsulates the bliss and serendipitous flow I felt all trip-long.)
One note on Tigre: I’d recommend letting yourself walk far into and around the area to scope things out before pausing for food or getting sucked into any shops. Nice little gems and solid anchors to plug into your map: Artesanías Delta (a wicker store near good food and the boat ride I mentioned), Mil Colores Arte y Deco (a cute shop in a must-visit mall-esque structure), and Pitanga (a Brazilian ice cream shop and café in the same mall-esque structure).
A moment for wellness, too: When I’m in a city where massages cost less than they do in the U.S. — which feels like most international cities — I love to take advantage. I’d confidently recommend a massage with Ariela, who you can reach via Instagram DMs at @ari_pussetto. Her talent was magical, her spirit was warm, and her space was completely serene and homey. I also tried a massage (and facial) at Home Hotel Spa, which offered a chic and relaxing setup but didn’t feel worth the price. For yoga classes, I felt fully welcomed by Ardha Yoga Estudio in Palermo Soho, where I frequented Laura’s Yin Yoga sessions.
where to eat
It felt hard to go wrong when choosing cafés and restaurants in any neighborhood. I loved just about everywhere I tried — even if a spot was a bit overpriced or the atmosphere was lacking, the food was still great.
My favorite café was Cuervo Cafe in Palermo Hollywood. The coffee never disappointed, the food menu impressed, the staff was warm, the people-watching was sublime, the indoor and outdoor seating felt equally enticing, and, as a bonus, their menu design supplied a feel-good burst of energy amid my near-daily stops. I also cherished my coffee from La Faustina in Villa Crespo, along with its dreamy outdoor space.
Favorite spots for lunch: Malvón for a similarly pleasant exterior and stunning pastries to take on the way out and Restaurante Rotiseria Miramar for charm and classics like meat and pasta.
Favorite spots for dinner: Las Cabras for stunning indoor and outdoor seating and large plates with amazing fish, Artemisia Cocina Natural for clean eating and cozy, vibrant surroundings, El Preferido for artful dishes to share, Asu Mare Barra Cevichera for incredible seafood platters, and La Mar Cebichería for the freshest ceviche. Plus, Parilla Peña stood out as an amazing pick for a traditional feast — the staff feel like experts, the space contains two stories with several rooms jam-packed with people (in the best way), and there’s a little dumbwaiter to transport orders, which made me smile.
what to do: nightlife
Dinnertime can begin as late as 10:00 PM–12:00 AM, so if you’re not interested in staying up terribly late, you can linger at your dinner spot and call it a night. For a more intentional night out, though, a favorite I kept returning to was Club Lucero, a “garden bar” in Palermo Hollywood. It’s a special place that won me over when I stumbled in on my first night in the city to find them screening the entire Before trilogy under the stars as part of their film club. They supplied optional Bluetooth headphones for tuning in to the audio, but you could also enjoy the bar without headphones, letting the visuals set a mood in the background. The warm and welcoming staff was also a big factor in my adoration of this space.
Other nightlife recommendations of various kinds include Dársena, another fun bar, the fairly new Dancing Ganesha for pizza and jazz, Paloko Bowling for delightfully janky lanes and a good time, and watching a tango show (or trying tango yourself via a class) at La Catedral Club, which is a majestic, must-visit warehouse housing shows around the clock.
final thoughts
Buenos Aires provides more than enough to fulfill lovers of packed itineraries, but it also supports slower, spontaneous travelers. I personally savored the warm energy that radiated just about everywhere, and the way it felt like there was always tons to do and discover — without any pressure to adopt an unnatural pace. And while the city as a whole feels like a mosaic of many different cities from around the world, and you’ve probably heard that it’s “the Paris of South America,” there’s a distinct hue that sets it apart.
Words & photography by Eva Berezovsky